Effie's serves up home-style Greek fare

"What you mean you no eat meat? OK, I cook lamb." And lamb you shall have, along with chicken, fish, spinach pie and baklava, all authentic Greek specialties at Effie's BYOB on Antique Row.

The restaurant is set in a traditional Philadelphia row house. As a result, separate, small spaces include a few tables each. The set-up creates a sometimes crowded yet homey and romantic atmosphere. In the summer, bring a bottle of wine and sit in the garden, or sit next to the wood-burning stove in the carriage house on a winter night.

Effie's 1127 Pine St. (215) 592-8333 Fare: Greek Authentic Greek cuisine in a cozy, romantic atmosphere with outside eating area.

At this traditional Greek eatery, you can forget about impersonal service. Owner Effie Bouikidis herself is around to answer questions about food, the restaurant business and her family's Greek heritage. She owns the 7-year-old Philadelphia staple with her mother. Her sister helps out from time to time, and her brother cooks. Across the street is her father's pizzeria. Clearly, this family knows food. And it is family, more than anything else, that has inspired and defined Effie's restaurant. As Effie puts it, "We mostly cook things my parents made for me as a child." The homey atmosphere draws patron after beaming patron into Effie's family for a home-cooked meal.

Weekends are usually very busy, especially on First Fridays, when live Greek music adds a lively element to the already inviting atmosphere. On any day of the week, ask your waiter to read your fortune in a cup of Greek coffee ($2.50) at the end of the meal to find out if a trip to Athens or another meal at Effie's is in your future.

While well known for its baklava, other Greek staples, such as hummus and spinach pie ($6), have been perfected. Get an appetizer sample plate ($9.50) so that you can try both along with other delicious starters such as dolmades (stuffed grape leaves) ($6), feta cheese ($6.50) and kalamata olives ($3.50).

Meat is recommended; the flavorful and tender lamb or chicken souvlaki ($12.50) is cooked traditionally, but there are fish and non-meat options as well. The fried calamari platter ($14) comes with crunchy french fries and a picantiki salad, and the highly recommended Mediterranean pasta ($8.50) is a huge serving of penne pasta covered in typical Greek ingredients. Diners will be happy to find that the famous baklava($3.50), densely layered with nuts, is not overrated. Both this dessert and the galaktoboureko, a crisp and flaky shell filled with sweet semolina custard, are covered in honey.

At Effie's, expect friendly faces, a warm welcome and an affordable, no frills meal. The trip to 11th Street is worth it for truly authentic Greek cuisine and a memorable experience. Dinner with the Bouikidis' is always a treat.

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