When people think of the South Philly dining scene, the words "homey" and "Italian" generally come to mind more than "upscale" or "French." But Pif -- which with its address of S. 8th and Kimball streets is located in the heart of the South -- proves to be just as Francophonic a bistro setting as Blue Angel or Opus 251.
Chef David Ansill takes advantage of the local meat and produce markets by changing the menu daily. The day's choices are charmingly laid out in mock-French cursive on a chalkboard next to the kitchen. The selection is sure to please both the reluctant diner and the haute-cuisine connoisseur alike.
Expect the entrees to mainly consist of meat or fish with a simple side of vegetables and starch. On one night, the tenderloin tips were topped with an exquisite creamy, piquant sauce and placed beside a bed of string beans and a sizable, crispy gratin of sliced potatoes. The scallops were buttery, and served atop a side of spinach, and a bowl of white rice was given to help mop up the sauce.
Patrons can expect a strong selection of beef or fish, with perhaps a shellfish entr‚e also on the evening's menu. Rabbit, lamb, fowl or even a quiche will also be likely options.
The appetizer menu also follows traditional French themes -- mussels, a mushroom soup, etc. But the real prize is the snails. As Pif's mollusk-themed logo would indicate, the quintessence of Gallic cuisine can be found in abundance within.
The escargots at Pif are served inside a hollowed-out head of garlic. A side of mesclun greens counterbalances their slimy texture, while the anise flavor of the Pernod sauce in which they are served makes the salty flavor bearable.
For dessert, Pif offers a wide variety of after-dinner cheeses as well as pastries. Pay close attention to the chocolate mousse cake or the Financier, if you're not a lover of fromage.
Pif is located on the ground floor of a converted two-family home. The door opens onto a small, well-lit dining room with a tiny bar resting in front of the kitchen in back. The setting is intimate, but one does not feel crowded. The wait-staff is friendly and willing to explain the particulars of the day's menu.
A couple things to mention about Pif: To begin with, it's BYOB. Also, because of its size, reservations are a must, and the parties can't be too large.
Pif, though not too pricey, doesn't seem to attract the same amount of college traffic as its Center City counterparts, so it might be a better choice for a date or dinner with the parents than for a ribald Saturday night out with your group of friends.
