On the main page of its Web site, La Famiglia boldly refers to itself as "Philadelphia's Best Italian Restaurant" and its "most distinctive dining experience."
What the family-owned restaurant might appear to lack in subtlety, it compensates for with its welcoming atmosphere and a menu bursting with variety and flavor.
You could be forgiven for missing the place on your first walk down Front Street, as it's buried somewhat inconspicuously near Market. But if you do make it, you'll be greeted by a true Old City restaurant atmosphere that's pleasant and elegant but not overpowering.
Service was excellent, highlighted by a waitstaff which seemed almost to exceed the number of diners. It only served to complement the warm environment cultivated by the soft, inviting decorations of the dining room.
The first thing that pops out is the wine list, which details one of Philadelphia's best wine cellars. With well over 10,000 bottles of wine, the list's girth puts the Manhattan phone book to shame.
Appetizers were highly satisfying, with the Malfati alla Sena ($17/24) topping the list. The homemade spinach-ricotta dumplings could have highlighted a dish on their own. But the addition of a creamy but not-too-sweet eggplant and smoked salmon sauce served only as an improvement.
Vitello al Tartufo ($35) is a good choice on the entree front, and it could be worth the pinch to your wallet. A black truffle and porcini sauce worked well with the loin of veal.
Capesante All 'Arancio ($28) proposed an curious mix of scallops, pan-seared, in an orange sauce on a bed of spinach. The sauce, a demi-glaze heavy on citrus, was an interesting match for the scallops, which were the highlight of the dish.
The dessert cart brought a number of appealing choices, belied only by the filling appetizers and entrees which left at least one diner full. The tiramisu, for one, did not disappoint.
The millefeuille (Napoleon) is another good choice. The huge portion, not short on taste, will almost certainly be enough to satisfy.
On the whole, La Famiglia presents enough good options that you're unlikely to leave disappointed - even if the comprehensive wine list isn't up your alley. And if you don't mind the hit to your wallet, it's well worth a visit on your next trip to the Old City.
