Center City Japanese restaurant offers idyllic setting

With a cozy sushi bar greeting you from the entrance, Genji Japanese Cuisine at 17th and Sansom streets promises quality food in an idyllic setting.

Having come a long way since its 1982 opening in University City -- in the 40th and Spruce streets location now occupied by Nara -- Genji's current Center City location boasts Chef Masahiko Itai.

Itai was awarded a silver medal last year for creative sushi in The Sushi Contest, sponsored by the National Sushi Society of New York.

But don't be fooled -- Genji's sticks to the tried and tested route for the most part.

Since 1994, the waitresses dressed in traditional kimonos are a refreshing contrast to the more modern attire sported by Stephen Starr-type establishments.

And sushi aficionados have been known to travel inordinate distances to gorge themselves on a spicy shrimp tempura roll with eel or an assortment of sashimi.

Fans of other Japanese cooking can enjoy broiled fresh water eel served over rice in traditional box or filet of pork, breaded and deep-fried served with tonkatsu sauce, mustard and wasabi sauce.

My guest ordered a special dinner set ($25) which compromised of a salmon sashimi appetizer served with barley miso sauce that was followed by tuna sauteed in teriyaki sauce and Hotate Aspa Mayoyaki -- baked scallops and asparagus in cream sauce.

The meal was further complemented by Sato-imo Kushi -- skewered potato -- and filet mignon served in a radish-sweet wine sauce. The portions were moderately sized but pleasing to the palate.

Last but not least, my guest enjoyed a shot of Karatamba sake from the Hyogo prefecture.

The sake, apparently, was "the highlight of the meal" and my guest considered the dinner set to be a great deal.

But Genji's kitchen prowess is only on full display when used for more traditional cuisine untainted by Western influences. With this in mind, I ordered the chirashi sushi ($21) -- an assortment of raw fish on bed of sushi rice.

Though somewhat on the small side, the sashimi was carefully arranged on the bed of vinegared rice to create an aesthetic singular to Japanese cuisine: precise lines and simple beauty.

The home-made ice cream served with seasonal fruits ($5.50) was a satisfying conclusion to the meal. Available in flavors ranging from green tea and red bean to black sesame and vanilla, those who crave the exotic will not be disappointed.

Alternatively, the adventurous can opt for anmitsu ($5.50). Consisting of ice cream served with fruit cocktail, red bean and rice cake, this dessert may be an acquired taste but is sure to delight a select few.

The restaurant's cozy atmosphere and loyal following means that reservations are recommended, especially for larger groups.

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