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If you think that the who's who of Philadelphia satisfy their Chinese food cravings at Beijing and the Hong Kong Cafe, think again. Not that the ritzy Susanna Foo, located at 1512 Walnut Street, fits snugly into the standard Chinese restaurant category. In fact, with its extensive can't-go-wrong menu, exquisitely designed dining room and impressive reputation, Susanna Foo is a shining star along the city's famed Restaurant Row. Enter Susanna Foo and one of the first things you'll notice is the long rectangular-shaped dining room that stretches the full length of the restaurant. On a typical weekend night, expect each of the 25 or so tables to be completely occupied. In the dining room itself, while the tuxedo-clad waiters and waitresses attend to all of your needs, the large mirrors with Chinese-style decorations, silk lanterns and scroll paintings provide an elegant Asian theme to the otherwise hustle-bustle restaurant feel. Putting aside the ambience for a second, it's important to note that the menu is the real heart-and-soul of the place. Susanna Foo is a restaurant that prides itself on its fusion of Chinese and French cuisine. In other words, forget the moo goo gai pan, forget the coq au vin and forget everything in between. Here, at Susanna Foo, you'll find a combination you hadn't thought possible. From the impressively large dim sum menu, for instance, you have your choice of appetizers ranging from Spring Rolls with Chicken, Shrimp, Shiitake and Herbs ($9.50) to the Hudson Valley Foie Gras with Carmelized Pineapple ($17.50). I enjoyed the delicious Wild Mushroom Dumplings ($14), which were small and round and, quite literally, melted in my mouth. The six dumplings were served atop a bed of fresh greens and doused lightly with an oil vinaigrette. My date, meanwhile, ordered the Hundred Corner Crabcakes with Cucumber Salsa and Shredded Nori ($13.50), which were surrounded by crispy endives and potatoes. She described them as excellent and "tropical." Fortunately, though, the meal didn't end there -- although the appetizers were hearty enough to comprise a small meal of their own. The entrees showcase Susanna Foo's comprehensive diversity, as the selections range from the seemingly standard Chinese fare -- Kung Pao Chicken with peppers, mushrooms and peanuts ($18) -- to the undoubtedly more exotic dishes, like the Crispy Duck with Haricot Vert and Baby Spinach ($25) and the Red Snapper with Spicy Thai Curry Sauce ($29). The Pan Seared Black Sea Bass ($29), adorned with shiitake mushrooms, baby carrots and scallions, was a particularly outstanding catch in every sense of the word. The fish was soft, warm and tasty. Another fine selection, this one ordered by my date, was the Poached Maine Lobster with Artichokes and Asparagus ($33). Risotto with shrimp and bay scallops accompanied the lobster. Lastly, just in case you've still got room, don't forget to take a glance at the dessert menu, which serves up sweets like the Chocolate Raspberry Mousse ($8) and the Apple Cranberry Tart with Rosemary Crust ($8). The Warm Chocolate Cake with Liquid Center ($8) was every bit as good as it sounds as was the Banana Chocolate Tart ($9). There's no doubt about it: With Susanna Foo, you pay for what you get. If you're looking to treat your significant other to a fantastic Center City dinner or just looking for a nice night out with your parents, Susanna Foo is just right.

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