Fine French dining, easy to find in Center City

Not many restaurant operators brag about their establisment's three-out-of-five-star rating.

But that was one of the first things that general manager Marc Grika told me, with pride, as my table was being prepared. The main difference, Grika explained, is that a five-star restaurant has a 1 to 1 server-to-table ratio, because all of a table's dishes must come out at exactly the same time.

His point, though, was that Brasserie Perrier is pleased to be different from haughty sibling restaurant Le Bec Fin, located just down the street. Georges Perrier's second restaurant, now in its twelfth year, is more of an upscale French bistro. It has a modern vibe, established by the extensive bar and lounge near the entrance.

Make no mistake: Brasserie is still one of the most upscale restaurants in Philadelphia. Its attire is business casual - I would've felt uncomfortable had I not worn a blazer - and for those with too much money to spend, it offers wines that cost over $5,000 per bottle. But the beautiful decor, excellent service and exquisite food make it the perfect destination for a special occasional.

The main dining room is a dark orange, spiced up by hand-pained columns inspired by Marcel Duchamps' "Nude Descending a Staircase." The wall leading up to the second level - reserved for private parties - features Georges Perrier himself "descending the staircase."

It's Perrier's culinary talent that makes this restaurant stand out. At the Germantown Cricket Club, Perrier had an omelet that impressed him so much that he went into the kitchen to meet the man responsible: Chris Scarduzio. Scarduzio was hired as part of Brassiere's opening staff and two years later was promoted to executive chef.

My friend and I started off by splitting a seafood combo, in lemon confit sauce, as well as house-made polenta gnocchi, with chicken and mushrooms. The gnocchi was on a different level. Its parmesan sage sauce was thick and incredibly rich, giving it an extra kick of flavor absent from the lemon confit.

It was the appetizer we didn't order, however, that was the highlight of the meal. Grika came over to us and said we had to try their foie gras specialty. We obliged, and although there is controversy over the animal treatment required to make the dish, one thing is certain: It was delicious. Brasserie's version of duck liver was cooked and garnished with caramelized onions and apples, creating an uncommon but savory mix of flavors.

For our entrees, we split a rib-eye filet and a Chinese five-spiced black sea bass. Brasserie's Thursday plat du jour of "slow-roasted prime rib of beef" is apparently the best thing on its menu, but, alas, it was Saturday, so we had to settle for the rib-eye. It was on the rarer side of medium-rare - no complaints for a steak - juicy and had almost no fat. The polenta cake underneath absorbed the merlot sauce for a simple, but surprisingly good, side. The sea bass was exactly what you'd expect - and that's not a bad thing.

The portions are plenty big; by then, we were stuffed. We split an apple galette and a vanilla creme brulee anyway, and while they were good, the dessert is probably not a primary incentive to visit Brasserie.

The ambiance and the other courses, though, are reason enough. Be ready to splurge - or get the parents to pick up the tab - but it's worth it.

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