Philadelphia's Delaware River waterfront was once a bustling seaport with cargo ships from around the world docking at ports up and down the city.
Today, the majority of the waterfront is almost devoid of once-burgeoning industry.
But permanently anchored just off S. Columbus Boulevard -- between Lombard and South streets -- is one of the last vestiges of Philadelphia's great maritime tradition. And much to the city's benefit, it doubles as one of Philadelphia's most unique and interesting restaurants.
The Moshulu is the largest floating four-masted sailing ship in the world, and housed within it is a premiere dining establishment whose focus on seafood still leaves plenty for patrons who prefer other tastes.
The appetizer menu is diverse, ranging from seafood standards such as crab cake and lobster bisque to warm duck salad and butternut-squash soup.
The jumbo lump crab cake ($14) was served in a creamy sauce with tomato, smoked bacon, fennel onion marmalade and parsley. And true to its name, the size of the cake was more than formidable.
But Moshulu's list of entrees is even more varied than its first courses: A variety of different fish dishes, chili-glazed duck breast, a thick cut of filet mignon and an organic chicken breast stand out from among the main courses.
Rounding out the menu is that classic standard for those who want it all -- the Moshulu Surf & Turf ($35), which consists of two small cuts of tenderloin steak garnished with the restaurant's homemade steak sauce, a sizeable amount of lobster-infused mashed potato and thin, crispy onion straws.
The steak was tender and flavorful, although the small size left me wanting more. The potatoes compensated, however, and the large chunks of lobster really gave the dish an interesting flavor.
The center cut filet mignon ($36), served on a thick potato cake, was equally tender but certainly more substantial. Although possibly a tad overpriced, it was certainly still worth it.
But as good as the meal was, the dessert blew the rest out of the water -- so to speak. Just about everything on the extensive menu sounded fantastic; my only regret was that I couldn't try everything.
The cheesecake ($10) was served with orange sorbet and cooked strawberries and was without a doubt a worthy selection.
The chocolate sampler ($12), consisting of a warm chocolate tart, chocolate sorbet, a thin cookie, a truffle and a multi-layered, multi-flavored chocolate cake, came highly recommended by the server -- and with good reason. Every single item on the plate tasted -- and looked -- fantastic.
And, of course, Moshulu's location imparts a unique atmosphere onto the restaurant, creating a striking ambiance that other settings cannot easily provide.
Tables along the port side of the ship have a gorgeous view of the Delaware River, and even exploring the boat while waiting for your meal is an experience unto itself.
The decor is modern and artistic, with a bit of an Eastern twist.
So although the Delaware River waterfront may no longer be the center of Philadelphia's economy, there's still one ship on the river that is undoubtedly worth the trip.
