Classic Japanese in a contemporary setting

Although the proliferation of sushi throughout campus, from places as common as The Fresh Grocer can only bode well for raw-fish fans, one can only eat so many California rolls.

So for those who tire of everyday Japanese fare, Moshi Moshi -- near Rittenhouse Square -- offers a solid downtown reprise, complete with a well stocked sushi bar and a wide selection of cooked dishes.

The unassuming exterior of this well-established restaurant marks a stark contrast with its moody interior. There are three different seating areas in the relatively small dining room: the sushi bar, small tables in the front and a row of raised tatami mat booths in the back. My guest and I chose to take our chances sitting cross-legged on the tatami mats.

It was 6:00 p.m. on a weeknight and the restaurant was already starting to crowd, but the noise level remained surprisingly low and the dining area maintained its zen aura of minimalist calm. The dim lighting was relaxing but hindered our ability to read the smaller print on the menu. Luckily the waitress was extremely knowledgeable and made narrowing down our choices easy.

The highlight of our evening arrived early on a plate covered in "tiger eyes" -- the seamlessly fused flavors and textures of crispy fried squid wrapped around cooked salmon and asparagus.

After devouring our appetizer we browsed through the satisfyingly full list of sushi before deciding on some experimental house rolls, sashimi and an assortment of classic sushi.

To seasoned Houston Hall sushi connoisseurs Moshi Moshi's sushi may look surprisingly small, but what it lacks in size it more than makes up for in taste.

The special sushi rolls boast a bold combination of textures in well balanced proportion, while the sashimi was firm and expertly sliced. We were impressed by the beautiful presentation of the deluxe sushi platter, which included the familiar salmon and tuna as well as more exotic pieces like tako (octopus) and uni (sea urchin).

After the sushi we felt primed for heavier fare, so we ordered two hearty stewed dishes. I was a bit disappointed that my nabeyaki udon (udon noodles in soup with various meat and vegetable toppings) was made without fish cakes or tempura pieces, but I quickly forgot my woes after dipping into my friend's bowl of beef sukiyaki.

We ended our meal with a simple green tea ice cream dessert while sipping warm sake and lingering in our raised tatami-mat booth. The bill was a bit pricey but reasonable considering the amount of food ordered. That said, Moshi Moshi is a restaurant best suited for a night when you are looking to leave feeling pleasantly full, not overly stuffed.

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