New Bookbinder's feels awfully familiar

Bookbinder's is every bit as Philadelphia as the Liberty Bell. And like the aforementioned tourist attraction, this venerable city landmark has a few cracks but nonetheless continues to draw crowds well after its first century has passed.

First opened in 1865, Bookbinder's has had a storied past, and this spring began the latest chapter. After being closed for several years and undergoing $21 million in renovations, the "Old Original" Bookbinder's is back.

This is, of course, not to be confused with Bookbinder's 15th Street, which closed a year ago. That establishment operated under different ownership and essentially filled the void while the new, or should I say old, restaurant was on hiatus. The 15th Street restaurant is now gone, and things are back to the way they used to be, or so the sign on the door says.

It's through that door on Walnut Street (between Second and Front) that a venerable who's who has meandered over the years. Presidents Kennedy, Nixon and Bush the first all made sure to hit up Bookbinder's while in Philadelphia.

They were surely not disappointed. In fact, their images (along with many other famous faces) still grace the walls of the dining room. In addition to the modern presidents, each of the past commanders in chief has a portrait hanging on the rich, paneled walls of the cozy dining room adjacent to a handsome bar.

You would think that owner John Taxin -- who made it a point to drop by and say hello -- was trying for a stately but comfortable atmosphere where one would expect the city's upper crust to relax after a day at the office. And he's achieved that, save for the overdone Muzak-esque smooth jazz, which made me wish the elevator would just stop at the ground floor and let me off.

As for the fare, Taxin's executive chef David Cunningham provides what you would expect in a "destination" seafood house. But unless you're looking for steamed lobster (not exactly a bargain at $22 a pound), there's nothing on this slate that sets Bookbinder's apart from other fish joints.

Any seafood place worth its lemon butter serves a good clam chowder. What Bookbinder's serves is a flavorful but thin version of the New England variety ($5) as well as a Manhattan cup for those who prefer a tomato base. It passes the test, but lacks a "wow" factor.

The only appetizer Bookbinder's puts its name on is the "famous" snapper soup ($5). This rich concoction is worthy of its reputation, with a hint of ginger. Add a touch of sherry for a little extra zing.

Wash that down with something from Bookbinder's extensive wine list, which is well worth the hefty price tag. Purists will tell you that white wine is seafood's best friend. They've never met a Pinot Noir from De Loach of Sonoma County, Calif. This bold and smooth 2001 vintage ($42) is worthy of a place in my wine rack any day.

When it comes to the main attraction, beef barons might opt for one of Bookbinder's steak offerings (starting at $22). But if red meat is what you crave, you've come to the wrong place, or so says the 350-gallon tank of live lobsters greeting you at the door.

Chef Cunningham has put together a decent selection of ocean fare, and that's essentially the establishment's bread and butter. Patrons have two choices of surf and turf -- an eight-ounce filet and lobster tail for $42 or a porterhouse and jumbo crab cake for $60 -- but beyond that there is little creativity.

If you're looking for something off the beaten path, try the boiled Idaho brook trout ($22). A generous portion of moist, white fish arrives perfectly cooked and drenched in a tasty but overpowering cream sauce. In the Northwest, fresh trout carries its own distinct flavor; here, you wouldn't know. The shrimp- and crab-stuffed flounder ($29) lived up to expectations and did not suffer from the same sauce overdose.

Wrap up with one of nine desserts (all $9) or a laundry list of after-dinner drinks. A round tiramisu will not disappoint, nor will a decadent chocolate mousse topped with raspberry sorbet.

When all is said and done, Bookbinder's will live up to your expectations, but that's about it. A place that has been long thought of as a tourist restaurant hasn't changed $21 million later. The surroundings -- from the white-jacketed servers to the two small dining rooms with open kitchen -- scream for this to be a stately Philly hangout. It's not.

Bookbinder's is a lot like Philadelphia itself. It's a great place to visit once, but you probably won't put it on your list of regular destinations.

Please note All comments are eligible for publication in The Daily Pennsylvanian.