Latest sushi hot spot boasts classy fusion

It may be a new kid on the block, but the latest Japanese restaurant to grace the city is no lightweight.

Open since July 21, the Philadelphia branch of Haru boasts six sister restaurants in New York. The Japanese fusion chain falls under the larger Miami-based Benihana group, which operates 72 restaurants across the nation.

Haru, which means "spring" in Japanese, has breathed new life into its location at Third and Chestnut streets -- a former bank building.

If you judge the restaurant by its exterior, you may be surprised when you step inside: Flickering candles add a romantic touch to a glass staircase leading to an upstairs lounge. Wooden accents and honeysuckle-yellow walls give the restaurant an earthy tone. The moody decor is complemented by attentive but unobtrusive service.

But a feast for the eyes won't fill a stomach, and this is where Haru might fall short on a student budget.

The house tempura roll ($10) -- a warm combination of eel, shrimp and salmon -- was beautifully presented, as was the crispy duck with hoisin sauce ($10). The latter was a cute twist on an old Beijing favorite. Ironically enough, the duck was surprisingly succulent but not crispy.

A sashimi entree ($26), consisting of three slices of tuna, two slices each of striped bass, salmon, yellowtail, sawara (Spanish mackerel) and kani (raw crab) did not disappoint.

A sushi/sashimi entree ($26) featuring three tuna, whitefish, salmon, two yellowtail, sawara, shrimp, one eel, a cucumber hand roll and a California roll was similarly pleasing.

The fish was clearly fresh and of good quality although not particularly outstanding. I was especially disappointed that ground wasabi root, a staple at the best Japanese restaurants, was unavailable.

Classic Japanese fare failing to whet our appetite, my date and I decided to venture into more unknown territory.

The oyster roll ($12) caught our eye. The crispy oyster and scallion with mango curry sauce proved to be a delightful combination and perhaps better showcased the skills of Haru's chefs.

We rounded the meal off with a tempura-style cheesecake ($7), although some of the more interesting flavor options were unavailable that night. Dessert was a tasty lesson in Japanese fusion, perhaps one that embodies the true spirit of Haru.

The bill rang up to $91 for two at the end of the night, excluding tax and tip. That may be a hefty price to pay for fusion cuisine, but it's still cheaper than an evening at the flagship of the Iron Chef.

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