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Andrew Margulies

After wandering through a set of revolving doors, past the security desk, down an extended hall littered with furniture boutiques -- random, yes -- up four flights in an elevator, my companion and I finally found our way into Bistro St. Tropez.

"This restaurant needs to hire a new real estate agent," my companion muttered.

Located in the Marketplace Design Center at 2400 Market Street, Bistro St. Tropez is, to say the least, off the beaten path.

However, we quickly realized that our heroic feats to locate the chic french restaurant were indeed worthwhile.

The view, from most parts of the restaurant, is impressive, overlooking the Schuylkill River from 30th Street Station to the Philadelphia Museum of Art and Boathouse Row, which, if you have never seen lit up at night, is breathtaking.

The decor of the eclectic french bistro was simple and modern, with high open ceilings and two decadent bars. Staying true to its french roots, Bistro St. Tropez dedicates an entire wall to displaying its enormous selection of fine wines.

After checking our coats, we were promptly led to a romantic table near the large panel windows.

To begin the meal, we were served a sourdough baguette with pesto olive oil.

Our tastebuds perked as we perused the ample, but not overwhelming, menu.

Our appetizer selections may have been the most delicious part of the meal.

Between the two of us, we shared the Saint Jacques ($8.95) appetizer, which consisted of plump pan-seared scallops, fingerling potatoes and asparagus. A savory citrus caramel sauce perfectly complimented the immense and tender scallops.

I also opted for the Boston salad ($7.50), an arrangement of Boston Bibb lettuce, sliced apples, delicious honey-roasted walnuts, cubes of gorgonzola and a light walnut vinegarette.

Although we probably could have stopped there, we moved on to the main course.

As an entree, I decided on the salade du jour, a Thai lobster creation.

The lobster meat was sweet, although far from plentiful, enhanced by flavorful chunks of roasted pineapple.

My companion chose the Filet ($19.95), a grilled filet mignon with broccoli, mashed potatoes and a rich gorgonzola and bordelaise sauce.

Although once again the portion was a bit slight, the meat was succulent and scrumptious.

To top off a night of lavish eating, we finished with the classic french dessert -- creme brul‚e.

The delicate and crunchy outer shell, adorned with two juicy blueberries, gave way to a luscious and creamy filling. To say that the final course of our meal was excellent would be a gross understatement.

Unfortunately, Bistro St. Tropez's extraordinary cuisine was served by just an average staff.

My companion and I waited for over 15 minutes for the menu and, later on in the evening, had to remind our waiter to bring the check.

Despite its confusing location and the adequate service, Bistro St. Tropez is a wonderful experience, especially for a romantic date or to celebrate a special event.

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