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The Northern Liberties section of Philadelphia is an area that has seen quite a bit of development in the last few years. It is quickly becoming one of the city's hottest spots, and is already home to an array of trendy restaurants and shops.

Indicative of this new atmosphere in Northeast Philly - or perhaps even a contributor to its development - is Standard Tap.

Since its opening in 2000, Standard Tap has been the embodiment of its neighborhood: somewhat urban and nondescript from the outside, but with a certain kind of sophistication and charm once you get through the door.

At first glance, Standard Tap doesn't seem like much more than your typical gastropub. A crowded bar and a blasting jukebox lie just beyond the door, and the dim lighting and crowded, contorted layout are somewhat disorienting.

But what makes Standard Tap special is its more-than-standard fare.

The beer selection is just about unrivaled, with a heavy emphasis on local brews. There are varieties to fit every taste and price, and then some.

As for the food, there are no paper menus; just typical bar-style boards scattered around the two-story building. But what's offered is just as much - and just as good - as you could find at many of the city's more celebrated eateries.

The offerings range from the usual hamburgers and pork sandwiches to much more exotic entrees such as octopus, venison and boar chops.

But even the most mundane meals were more than expected: The hamburgers, served with liberal amounts of fries and toppings such as chopped mushrooms, are considered by some to be the best in the city.

The atmosphere, however, could best be described as chaotic. You find a seat yourself (a fact which I didn't realize until nobody had appeared at the door after 10 minutes), and you must order at the bar. I had to make a separate trip to the bar to ask for napkins, and it occasionally seemed as if the wait staff forgot where to deliver people's orders.

But despite the difficulty involved in getting your food and drink, it's worth it. Standard Tap's unique combination of pub-style setup and gourmet-style food helps it truly set the "standard" for the Philly pub scene.

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