From the moment you walk through the glass doors of Striped Bass, there is no confusion about what to expect from your meal.
A 30-foot stuffed model of the restaurant's namesake fish sits high above the dining floor, gazing down at the high-brow locals who dine at the Center City seafood haven. And although bass is the fish of choice for many patrons, the seasonal menu offers a wide variety of options for the connoisseur of ocean delicacies.
Located on the corner of 15th and Walnut streets, Striped Bass is where the city's cultural elite go to satisfy their seafood cravings. And one would expect nothing less from a restaurant owned by Neil Stein, one of the upscale dining gurus of the Philadelphia area.
The decor of the restaurant -- housed in a building formerly occupied by a bank -- plays to an upscale, trendy clientele that seeks to be transported to a more tropical locale. The soft salsa music, baby palm trees and appropriate lighting set the mood for an intimate dinner, free of distractions from the bustling streets.
And the mere fact that the restaurant lies one block beyond the heavily-trafficked Avenue of the Arts gives it a more serene aura.
Not all is perfect with Striped Bass. The prices are on the steep side, and the portions are not overwhelming. And the imposing marble columns that run from floor to ceiling take something away from the tropical feel the restaurant seeks to achieve.
However, despite its minor drawbacks, the quality of the fish cannot be matched at other local seafood establishments. By the end of the evening, my companion and I had enjoyed our food enough to satisfy our oceanic desires for weeks to come.
Selecting from the menu is a chore in itself, as each dish has a twist that made me think twice before deciding. While I sunk my fork into the deliciously tender braised shrimp ($15), my companion opened her meal with a tasty portion of soy and citrus cured salmon ($13).
Although both appetizers were fresh and savory, they left us wanting more for the hefty price tag. That said, even restaurants in New Orleans, the shrimp capital of the world, were unable to match the scrumtrilescent flavor of the garlic buttered shellfish.
In deliberating over which entrees to select, my companion and I determined that although other options were tempting, we needed to test out the restaurant's bread-and-butter product. After many changes of heart, I settled on the Roasted Wild Striped Bass ($34), and she selected the Sauteed Black Bass Filet ($34).
It took only one tender bite to impress me. The bass was soft and juicy, and it was complemented by the tangy taste of the vegetables on the side. Although it left me wanting more, the restaurant's trademark dish proved to be just as good as advertised.
My companion had similar remarks about the delicious filet which she thoroughly enjoyed. It was an extraordinary meal, but for the extraordinary prices, we agreed that the portions were underwhelming.
We left room for dessert, which was fortunate, because the Valrhona Chocolate Cake ($10) a la mode proved to be a treat. The steaming molten inside burned my tongue, while the ice cream stung my teeth. A small price to pay for a delicious end to the dinner.
Striped Bass may not be for those on a tight budget, but there are few places that combine such a nouveau atmosphere with such tender, fresh fish. No wonder the Philadelphia elite have made it the seafood destination of choice.
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